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When working with gel nails your clients have probably experienced a burning sensation when the hands coated in a UV lamp. The reasons for this sensation is called masters of the most different and sometimes unexpected:

  • Then the gel is bad.
  • Lamp bad
  • Too powerful UV lamp
  • Too weak UV lamp
  • The client has the wrong nails

None of the above reasons is true. The gel burns in the lamp for completely different reasons. When we put the hand in the UV lamp with gel, it begins to change from a gel state to a solid, the reaction occurs polymerization (curing). If you remember high school chemistry, and there we were taught that the reactions are of two types:

✅Exothermic (with heat)
✅Endothermic (absorbs heat.)
The polymerization reaction refers to an exothermic reaction, when heat flow is always allocated.

If you have worked with acrylics, you probably know that if you touch your finger to the surface of the nail, that was just modeled, you will feel the heat. Full reaction of the polymers in acrylic systems occurs 24-48 hours, and the gel just a few minutes. That is why when you work with gel you need to be especially careful. If not work heat will stand out too fast and the client is able to burn the nail plate.

The gel consists of oligomers and photoinitiators. Photoinitiators use the energy of UV rays to generate free radicals for the curing process.. The more photo initiators in a specific gel, the faster the hardening. However, this does not mean that we can just take the gel, add millions of photoinitiators and it would be fine to polymerize in 2 seconds. It is not so simple.

A large number of photo initiators will lead to excessive exothermic effect and the material is excessively heated on the nails of the client. It's especially frustrating to clients nails which damaged or weakened. The thicker the layers of material and, consequently, more photo initiators, the higher the likelihood of exothermic reaction. Thinner layers of UV cured gels better and produce less heat during curing.

A very large number of photo initiators can also lead to a loss of gloss, discoloration, incomplete polymerization and, consequently, allergic reactions.

Use of appropriate photo initiators for gels and their optimal number is two challenges facing scientists developing these types of materials.

Three important factors in the curing of UV gels:

The optimal balance between the photo initiator and UV lamp.
The intensity and spectrum of the UV lamp.
The exposure time in the UV rays.
Tips for working with gel, which will help to avoid excessive heating:

Model too thick layer of gel directly to the "naked" nails.
Use a base coat of gel for coupling.
Work with the substrate.
Change the bulb in a UV lamp on a regular basis (every 3-6 months, depending on work intensity).
Always use only professional materials.
The only reason that is not dependent on the wizard is a thin, damaged or sawn natural nails of the client.

For example, after an unsuccessful removal of nails. Such clients need to be very careful, be sure to thin layers of gel. In contrast to the healthy nail plate, which has 100 layers, damaged nails have only 50-60 layers, that sensitive receptors are almost 2 times closer to the material and the client feels good even small changes in temperature. If the nail is badly damaged, it is sometimes better to abandon the modeling procedure and wait until the nail plate is completely renewed in 3-4 months.

If heating has occurred, let the customer will immediately get your hand out of the lamp will support it some time in the distance, but so that the UV rays falling on the surface. The main part of the reaction, when there is a rapid evolution of heat occurs first, then overheating should not be felt.

Understanding the process of polymerization of the gel will help you to analyze your mistakes and in time to prevent them.

Published: 19.07.2019 22:46 Times Read: 194

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